A Festival Like No Other
Every two years La Semaine du Golfe Morbihan in Brittany transforms into a maritime spectacle of epic proportions.
With 6 days, 330,000 spectators, 3500 volunteers across 19 municipalities, and around 1200 maritime heritage boats in 11 flotillas that include everything from tall ships to Celtic longboats, this is not just a festival; it’s an armada with a heartbeat. A sea party exploded that brings the entire Golfe Morbihan alive.
The Golfe (small sea) Morbihan, contains 365 small islands and is adjacent to the Bay of Biscay.
Each day the various flotillas follow a different passage, from one host port to another.
The passages weave their way around the islands of the gulf, visiting ports where singing, dancing and visitors from all over bring the Golfe to life. For 6 days the flotillas traverse currents, tides and other flotillas; sailing, rowing or paddling their way from port to port to soak up the party atmosphere.
The Festival concludes on the Saturday with La Grande Parade, bringing all of the flotillas together on the same voyage!
This year, an intrepid group of Deganwy Rowers and their trusty Celtics, Mary Meldrum and Tal y Fan, set off from Conwy Yacht Club, with their destination locked on Vannes, France, to join the adventure.
The various travel parties took staggered start times and jumped on planes, ferries and automobiles, following different routes but all set to rendez-vous on Sunday 25th May in Vannes.
Base camp was set up and Mary Meldrum and Tal-y-Fan launched! All that was left was for Deganwy Rowers to prepare themselves for the experience of a lifetime to kick-off the following day.
What followed was a week of tidal and weather challenges, camaraderie, croissants, oysters, and a few near-misses with pirate ships.
Here’s their story…
The Call to Adventure
For the Deganwy Rowers, the journey to the La Semaine du Golfe Morbihan began months before with curiosity, courage, and a shared desire to do something extraordinary.
Some were drawn by the promise of challenge. Others were nudged by friends and family or inspired by stories from fellow clubs. For a few, it was a personal milestone or to simply test their limits. For others, something a little bit new and exciting, a rowing adventure or the irresistible lure of oysters and sunshine.
To do something a bit different, a bit of a challenge and I was hoping for sunny weather!
In retirement, I wanted new challenges and experience doing what I love to do, which is rowing
Explore one of the world’s most beautiful bays by boat and enjoy an extensive multi day row
The idea of rowing and being part of such an extravagant event
To be able to row as much as I could. To find out what I was capable of
To challenge myself to do something unlike anything I’d done before
Whatever the reason each rower arrived in Brittany with a sense of anticipation and left with memories that would last a lifetime.
Morbihan Crew: Peter Hamer, Jean Hamer, Jim Bateman, Annmarie Bateman, Colin Johnson, Alison Johnson, Neil Buckingham, Gary Thomas, Sue Blunt, Ros Jones, Debbie Lewis, Gareth Jones Mark Learmouth, Katrin Williams.
The Waters Were Wild!
The Golfe is known for its dramatic tides and swirling currents. The crew quickly learned that ‘washing machine’ wasn’t just a metaphor. Each day brought new challenges, navigating fast tidal currents, dodging tall ships, and rowing through unpredictable weather “the feeling of rowing on the edge of what is possible!”
On our first day, I found myself coxing through waters that I can only describe as a washing machine of water flows. The excitement, fear and relief in coming through it, such an adrenaline rush and pride in the crew
The water which was like a washing machine taking boats in the opposite direction they wanted to go!
We were rowing like hell as a pirate ship was bearing down upon us! Then cheering ourselves once we were through! So exhilarating!
Facing the Tide: Overcoming Challenges with Crew Nicknames, Singing and Sheer Determination
Throughout the festival, the Deganwy Rowers faced formidable challenges, from unpredictable tides to physical exhaustion, but their resilience and camaraderie carried them through. Many rowers spoke of the mental and physical techniques they used to keep going.
We had to dig deep and keep the rhythm—every stroke mattered
We sang songs to keep morale up. It was amazing how a simple chant could lift the boat’s energy
We rotated positions and gave each other pep talks. It wasn’t just rowing—it was emotional support in motion
We focused on the horizon and counted strokes—it helped us stay grounded when the waves got tough
We watched each other’s backs. If someone was struggling, we adjusted and encouraged
It was clear for everyone that teamwork and having each others back was the fire that carried them through. These moments of grit and grace defined the crew’s journey, turning hardship into triumph and forging bonds that will last well beyond the final tide.
One of the defining features of the Deganwy Rowers’ journey was the infectious camaraderie that kept spirits high even in the toughest conditions. Each crew member earned a nickname—some humorous, some heartfelt, all memorable. Among the monikers were: Jimmy Boot, 5 Bags Blunt, Ros Cheese, and the infamous One Croc Bay Neil. These names became badges of honour, shouted across the water and whispered in moments of fatigue.
Music was another lifeline. When arms ached and the tide turned against them, the crew turned to song. They sang everything from sea shanties to pop classics, including We’re All Going on a Summer Holiday”, Row Row Row the Boat, We Are Sailing, and the cheeky chant We are rowing… across the Bay of Biscay… across the sea!
The rhythm of the oars often matched the beat of the tunes, and laughter echoed across the bay as voices rose above the splash of water. Singing wasn’t just entertainment, it was motivation, unity, and a reminder that they were in it together.
Singing became a survival tactic, and teamwork was the secret sauce. They rowed in sync, laughed through exhaustion, and supported each other through every stroke.
A Festival Like No Other – Culture, Croissants, and Connection
The Golfe du Morbihan Festival wasn’t just an event, it was an atmosphere. Rowers described it as “awesome,” “buzzing,” and “a party on water.”
“The towns and villages were pumping with food, music and maritime heritage,”…creating a vibrant backdrop for the week’s adventures, one participant shared. Another summed it up simply: “Great spirit and fun.”
The festival isn’t just about rowing or sailing. It’s about connecting; with other crews, with the locals, and with the rich maritime culture of Brittany. From sea shanties to cider, every moment was a celebration of heritage and hospitality.
At the campsite we had more chance to share experiences with crews from different flotillas, stall holders, the volunteers who lived locally to the ports and the harbour master
In their flotilla, a proud fleet of Celtics took on the Golfe du Morbihan challenge together, “We were 7 Celtics, who by the end of the week followed each other,” one rower reflected, capturing the sense of unity that grew stronger with every tide. But the connections didn’t stop there. The Deganwy crew also bonded with other Welsh crews and even the Cornish rowers, forming a broader Celtic kinship on the water, “We had some great cooperation with Caernarfon Rowers, one of their ladies rowed with us on one of the most memorable days.” These spontaneous alliances, forged through shared effort and laughter, became one of the most cherished aspects of the festival.
From day 3 onwards a bond had formed with all the small boat crews of every nationality, truly inspiring
While language was a barrier, we were always near a Breton two-man sailing and rowing boat and we made our acquaintances, and helped each other out from time to time. Given their appearance we renamed them mini Gerard Depardieu and Fabien Galthie
A Deep Sense of Meaning
Beyond the rowing, the festival was a cultural immersion. For many, the festival holds deep personal and cultural significance.
The Bretagnes are a proud sailing population, steeped in history with sailing and boating at their core. Arriving at a port for lunch, and hearing the Bretagne choirs singing their sea shanties was very powerful
Crews mingled with locals and other teams, often in the most unexpected places…“Spoke to other teams normally in the long queues for the loo!” one rower joked. Others enjoyed local traditions, like “singing with the musicians on the quay side” or watching traditional dances on the islands. “It’s Maritime Immersion Fest!” one participant declared, while others described the festival’s personality as “a narley old sea dog”, “Ozzie Osborne” or Jonah Lomu – an extraordinary force of nature, both sublime and capable of blunt force trauma.
“Gulf week is all about Micha, who has clocked up 40,000miles in this festival! His blue eyes sparkling beneath his sailor cap. A figure as frail as his laugh is mischievous. At 97, the oldest member of the party is, first and foremost, a tireless storyteller of sea-spray-filled stories”.
Over the week, 330,000 spectators, young and old, joined this maritime spectacle. Every port providing information, entertainment and demonstrating crafts and traditional skills in a celebration of boating history; its advancements and achievements.
In addition everyone got to see the pure joy of taking part in these activities. That’s a unique experience that only a festival like this could provide
It’s a tradition—you feel part of an exceptionally large group who are like-minded.” “Every day I felt connected to the heritage of sailing
Keeps the spirit of being on the waters going
Brittany’s Natural Canvas
The breath-taking landscape of Brittany was more than a setting, it was a central character in the story of the Golfe Morbihan Festival. It is the particular geography and the physical characteristics of this “small sea” – its islands and islets, the narrow gully that separates it and protects it from the high seas, the tidal surges, the choppy water, and the random currents, which determine the rhythm of the event’s nautical programme.
The unique physical features of the Golfe meant that this festival provides conditions that are unique. The narrow inlet from the Bay of Biscay means that the water and the winds behave in a very particular manner, makes things challenging!
Rowers were constantly struck by the region’s natural beauty, with shouts of “lots of beautiful beaches and scenery” to “the Gulf is a dramatic space… what’s not to love?”
The clarity of the water, the rugged coastline, and the ever-changing skies created a sense of wonder with every stroke. “The scenery was spectacular and the water very clean and clear.”
Navigating through narrow inlets, past ancient villages and lush islands, the crews felt immersed in a living postcard. The environment didn’t just shape the route, it shaped the rhythm of the row, offering moments of serenity, challenge, and deep connection to the maritime soul of Brittany.
Moments That Took Their Breath Away…
The Grande Parade: A Triumphant Finale
The final day of the festival culminated in La Grande Parade – a breath taking spectacle that brought together over 1,500 boats in a vibrant, chaotic, and unforgettable celebration of maritime spirit.
For the Deganwy Rowers, it was a moment of awe and exhilaration. As they navigated the choppy waters, flanked by tall ships and cheered on by thousands of spectators lining the coast, the atmosphere was electric.
La Grande Parade wasn’t just a triumphant finale, it was a floating festival of colour, courage, and community, and for many, the emotional high point of an already unforgettable week.
We were off Port Navalo before the Grand Parade and it was just us off the point and several thousand spectators on the rocks cheering us on!
The water conditions were extremely lively and choppy. A news helicopter was hovering overhead so we had the down draft to contend with… the applause lifted our spirits and gave us the morale boost and motivation to keep going!
We were battling a strong current, onshore winds and hectic waves, but the massive crowd cheering us on made it all worthwhile
For some, it was the pride of “rowing next to the tall ships,”
Surprises on the Water
The festival was full of unexpected delights and quirky moments. From the sight of “an 80-year-old Australian lady solo in a mirror dinghy” to “naked sailors” the Golfe delivered surprises at every turn.
A very special surprise for Pete was reacquainting with an old love…
rowing alongside the Square Riggers, especially the Phoenix…I’d sailed as Mate on her in 1982
One rower recalled, “The sheer number of boats, sizes and crews was astonishing,”
while others laughed about “pink dragon boats” and being surrounded by “huge pirate ships”.
Reflections: Growth, Grit & Gratitude
By the end of the festival and 6 days of rowing over 140miles in total, everyone had changed: stronger, more confident, and deeply bonded. The experience tested their limits and rewarded them with unforgettable memories.
Leaving Port Navalo, Wednesday after lunch. We’d had a hell of a tough row in, very windy, grey, mad tides, Sue had to take us to safety in a bay and Pete followed. Boat carnage everywhere!! We had a great lunch break, then as we queued to take a tender back to our boats, the sun came out.
We rowed out of Port Navalo and it was like a dream. Sun sparkling on the water, boats everywhere, all heading in the same direction, tall ships on the horizon 🥰 It was a beautiful scene. Sue and I agreed to take mental videos and to always remember it, it was really emotional …tearing up now!
The Golfe du Morbihan festival was more than a test of endurance—it was a journey of personal growth and collective strength. Many rowers arrived with modest goals: “Just to give it a go really” or “To get fit after a knee op.” But by the end of the week, they had far exceeded their expectations.
One participant shared, “I rowed five of the six days, way more than I ever thought I was capable of.” Others discovered new depths of resilience: “I can row further than I thought and can cope with choppy waters” and “I’m a better rower now, and that my French isn’t bad!”
The toughest moments, whether it was rowing 20 miles a day, battling relentless tides, or simply pushing through fatigue or sun stroke, were met with unwavering teamwork, fuelled by lots of pan au chocolat, strong coffee, Breton cidre and oysters – well not everyone loved the oysters.
We put our faith in the cox and just kept going
Teamwork pulled us through every time. There was an incredible culture of support
Crewmates surprised and inspired each other. Through it all, the crew didn’t just row, they grew. They laughed, adapted, and lifted each other up. As one rower put it,
It was a hoot from beginning to end. Toughest part was it ending, could have kept on going forever!”
Celebrating Crew Legends
Throughout their time on and off the water, everyone came away from the experience a different rower, but several stood out for their exceptional contributions, resilience, and spirit.
Gareth was praised for his determination, having only completed two beginner rows before the event, yet he “absolutely smashed it”.
However he would have been lost without his oyster fearing partner in crime Jimmy.
He and Jimmy took one for the team by taxiing the crews to and from start and end ports each day…saving everyone from long days and coach trips to and from camp.
Annmarie was recognized for her brilliant leadership and ability to lift spirits when conditions were tough – when the going gets tough, the tough get going.
Sue Blunt earned admiration across the board for her “fabulous coxing in very challenging circumstances,” “knowledge of the water and strength under pressure” with one rower calling her “an absolute star.”
Neil was praised for his commitment and described as “a real workhorse” who never wanted a day off and who’s level head was greatly appreciated by his crew…oh and for his infamous experience at “One Croc Bay”…was that sinking mud or lots and lots of oyster poop?…so sorry there’s no photo evidence of the horror of One Croc Bay.
Gary was hailed as “an absolute hero” and “stroke leader and legend”
Pete’s steady guidance and decisive action were also appreciated, especially during moments of chaos on the water.
These individuals didn’t just row or cox, they inspired, led, and helped shape an unforgettable experience for everyone involved.
Would They Do It Again?
…In a Heartbeat!
Expect the unexpected, we’re all in it together, enjoy and be happy!
The answer was unanimous. Yes! But next time, they’re bringing more flapjacks, learning more French, making time to experience the festivities in the Ports and definitely booking a few days to recover before returning to normal life.
Oh yes, next time get a lodge/cabin, don’t leave straight after the festival you need some decompression time. Learn some French or if you’re a Welsh speaker Breton
Conclusion: A Festival That Stays With You
For the Deganwy Rowers, La Semaine du Golfe Morbihan 2025 was more than just a rowing event…it’s a feeling. A celebration of heritage, adventure, and human connection. It was an unforgettable, transformative journey through camaraderie, culture, and challenge.
The region itself left a lasting impression with its spectacular scenery and clean, clear waters its the perfect dramatic space to host this party on the water that brings together thousands of boats in a non-competitive celebration of maritime life.
Crews felt deeply connected to the heritage of the region, often moved by the passion of the Breton’s, sight of tall ships, the sound of Breton choirs, and the shared spirit of adventure.
As one rower put it, “It’s something I’d like to take part in for the rest of my life.” The experience broadened horizons, built confidence in their own rowing abilities as well as the Celtics, and sparked a desire to both return and take on other coastal challenges.
“Unforgettable,” “fanbloodytastic,” and “life-affirming” were just a few of the words used to describe it.
For those considering joining next time, the advice was simple:
Don’t think—just do it! You won’t regret it
Every day was unforgettable whether it was working and growing together as a crew, enjoying the camaraderie of the fleet, rowing in a diverse fleet from tall ships to sailing canoes, experiencing the thrill of engaging with some of the world’s greatest tidal races, experiencing the hospitality of Brittany and the list goes on…
A Bientot Golfe Morbihan
Look out for Mary Meldrum crashing through waves during La Grande Parade.
